- 1. Follow the original LISA design as close as possible
- 2. Use the simular lead screw/anti-backlash nut but find a cheaper version of it(.5" 5 start)
- 3. Use the same firmware and slicer to keep implementation as simple as possible (if needed update firmware with custom code)
- 4. Detail/Quality is key, 5 foot construction will be used to print electric guitar bodies
- 5. Speed of printing is a second to Detail/Quality of print
- 6. Make frame and assembly as simple as possible (even a 10 year old could do it)
- 7. Print as many parts as possible (frame included)
- 8. Custom aluminum heatbed to meet custom design surface
- 9. Resizing Goals (quick resizing with as few modifications to design as possible):
- a. Adjustment to the vertical and horizontal aluminium 1" square tubing to gain desired print area
- b. Adjustment print arm size (arm from shoulder joint to elbow joint)
- c. Adjustment custom aluminum heatbed (change dimensions and number of heat resistors)
- d. NEMA23 KL23H256-20-6A stepper motors so the length/weight of lead screws will not be a concern when re-sizing (within reason, 10 foot lead screws are not in reason)
- e. Strong enough power supply 12V 30A so during re-sizing power consumption isn't an issue.
I am stuck on the arms. I'm looking for a simple equation to determine the optimal arm length.
So, any help in this matter would be much appreciated. In the meantime, my thought is to review the firmware to see if I can determine how it's calculating the coordinates. My guess is that the arm length will be important in these calculations.

Again, any help, comments, and/or concerns with my approach is appreciated,
Robert Fidler, Springfield, Missouri