First fully-assembled arm

First fully-assembled arm

Postby owens-bill » Wed Dec 04, 2013 3:15 am

Pictures added to the Simpson set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/46411586@N03/sets/72157635840346545/

And a short video showing it moving back and forth: http://youtu.be/7YPpJEfWOws

It's strung according to Nicholas' diagram and my best guesses ;)
owens-bill
 
Posts: 35
Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:17 am

Re: First fully-assembled arm

Postby owens-bill » Thu Dec 05, 2013 6:07 pm

Three new pics added to the Flickr set, my first print of the newest motor arm, with the nicely arched opening in the side. I haven't had time to try fitting the tuner yet.
owens-bill
 
Posts: 35
Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:17 am

Re: First fully-assembled arm

Postby tommythorn » Thu Dec 05, 2013 6:38 pm

Thanks for sharing and keep them coming. I'm curious to see which arm design you like better.
tommythorn
 
Posts: 91
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 12:14 am
Location: Silicon Valley, CA, USA

Re: First fully-assembled arm

Postby owens-bill » Sat Dec 07, 2013 3:50 am

The "new" arm with the squared-off opening printed fine on my OB1.4, but the "new new" arm with the arched opening looks cooler IMO, so I'm printing it again for the third pair. I have the slave arms all ready, so given a few spare moments this weekend I may actually get the printer moving again. . .
owens-bill
 
Posts: 35
Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:17 am

Re: First fully-assembled arm

Postby brandonh » Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:17 pm

Bill, what print settings did you use for the arm, mainly infill amount/style, perims, layer heights, and top/bottom layers? Looks great. Thanks.
brandonh
 
Posts: 93
Joined: Tue Dec 03, 2013 8:18 am

Re: First fully-assembled arm

Postby owens-bill » Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:37 pm

Let's see: 0.3 mm layers, 3 perimeters, 3 solid top and bottom, 20% rectilinear infill, concentric top and bottom, solid infill every 20 layers. The other settings are pretty much printer-specific of course, so they probably don't matter to you but the one thing I'll say is that you need a heated bed, even with PLA. I run at 70 degrees for the first layer and then drop to 65, with a wash of PVAc/white glue on the glass. Sticks like crazy while hot, pops right off after it cools. Based on our earlier experiences I don't think it is possible to print a good arm with blue tape on a cold bed, nor printing directly on a heater with kapton; the bed needs to be fairly stiff to resist the pull as the arm tries to bend.

Oh, one other thing - I twist the arms 45 degrees to make them fit better, then set the infill to zero degrees so it still runs diagonal.
owens-bill
 
Posts: 35
Joined: Tue Nov 26, 2013 3:17 am


Return to GUS Simpson

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest

cron