Ideas for Increasing Arm Printability

Ideas for Increasing Arm Printability

Postby Nicholas Seward » Mon Dec 16, 2013 7:27 pm

It seems like GUS is causing several people headaches on the printing front. I would say that the shoulder and the arms are the main problem. (I know that this is almost the whole printer.)

I purposely designed GUS to have a minimum number of printed parts. However, I feel like there is a need to make a version that can be printed on a 150x150mm cold bed. I have a lot of ideas of how to do so but before I taint you guys with my ideas what do you think? How would you modify the parts to make them more friendly?

Note: We will get a lot of the kinks out first with the BETA testing before we introduce more versions.
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Re: Ideas for Increasing Arm Printability

Postby brandonh » Mon Dec 16, 2013 9:16 pm

What are the constraints?

Still {all the printed parts, 608's, m3's, and m8's you want}?

Or are you considering more material options, like cuts of Al extrusions?

I don't see any obvious ways to get around the curling issue when the arms are their current length, but I could see separating them in half (and possibly printing the gears flat) enabling cold-bed printing.
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Re: Ideas for Increasing Arm Printability

Postby Nicholas Seward » Mon Dec 16, 2013 11:43 pm

I would like to limit the parts to things that are super easy to source and are easy to work with. I would prefer to stay with the 608s, M8s, and M3s only.
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Re: Ideas for Increasing Arm Printability

Postby brandonh » Thu Dec 26, 2013 5:45 pm

Looks like this thread hasn't seen any action. Nicholas, what are your ideas here?
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Re: Ideas for Increasing Arm Printability

Postby Jason Fisher » Thu Dec 26, 2013 6:39 pm

A variation that uses two aluminum/acrylic/wood (popsicle stick/craft store wood) flat bars to extend in parallel out of the gear sandwich, secured from the existing bolts, separated by the distance of the wrist bearing. There are plenty of straight/flat/hard materials that are accessible to people, and the arm is a very simple shape. This would allow the main arm gear to scale to nearly the size of the bed.

Design a wrist bearing holder with two sleeves for the bars to slide into -- use a hair dryer/oven to set/seal?

http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Unpolish ... m_indust_1
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Re: Ideas for Increasing Arm Printability

Postby Jason Fisher » Fri Dec 27, 2013 12:06 pm

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Re: Ideas for Increasing Arm Printability

Postby Nicholas Seward » Thu Jan 02, 2014 7:56 pm

I am thinking about making the design modular to some degree. The gears would be printed flat as you guys suggested and would bolt onto a stub arm. If I design it right, the stub arms can be used for the hub, arms, and the shoulder. To scale the design people could just lengthen or shorten the stub arms. Does that make sense? I probably need pictures.
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Re: Ideas for Increasing Arm Printability

Postby cdsteinkuehler » Thu Jan 02, 2014 8:17 pm

Sounds like a great idea! The gears would probably print cleaner too when sliced sideways, and breaking up the 5+ hour single arm prints into smaller chunks seems like a good thing.

I'm not quite getting how a stub arm helps with the hub or shoulder though...I guess _I_ need pictures! :)
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Re: Ideas for Increasing Arm Printability

Postby imrahil » Thu Jan 02, 2014 8:36 pm

+1 for flat printed gears and modular design :)
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Re: Ideas for Increasing Arm Printability

Postby Nicholas Seward » Thu Jan 02, 2014 10:07 pm

@cdsteinkuehler: It might be overkill but I was thinking about how all the bearing and M8 holes can be oriented perpendicular to the build surface if you break each shoulder and hub piece into two parts.

Like always, I will just have to do it. I will then look at it. Smack my forehead and do it all over again in the correct way. This process may happen a few times.

My main concerns are how annoying it will now be to bolt everything together. Even if every junction only has 2 bolts and nuts this gets a little ridiculous. Maybe I can just rip the gears off and use the M8's to pull it all together. I hope this doesn't upset anyone but it will be easier to do this if I use bearing pulley's to act as standoffs for each side. :-)
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